Travel 09 Oct 2026 1 min read

Three weeks on the coast road with no itinerary

Twelve hundred miles, no bookings, and the two days that made the whole trip.

Three weeks on the coast road with no itinerary

Twelve hundred miles, nineteen days, and not a single booking made more than one night in advance. I had done the opposite trip two years earlier — spreadsheet, confirmations, a laminated thing — and remembered almost none of it.

How it actually worked

Drive until about four. Find somewhere by five. That was the whole system. It failed exactly twice: once in a festival town where everything was full, and once on a Saturday I had not thought about, both of which ended in a worse room than I would have booked and a better evening than I had planned.

Wooden boat on a still mountain lake

The two days that made the trip

Day eleven, I took a turning because the sign had an interesting name, and ended up on a single-track road along a sea loch for two hours, stopping whenever I felt like it. Day fifteen, I stayed put, in a town I had meant to pass through, because it was raining and the café had a fire.

Neither of those days could have survived an itinerary. That is the entire argument for travelling this way, and I do not have a second one.

A plan is a promise you made to a version of yourself who had not been there yet.

What I would do differently

  1. Book the first two nights. Arriving tired into nothing is the one genuinely unpleasant part.
  2. Leave one fixed point. I had none, and drifted for a week in the middle. One thing to aim at gives the drift a shape.
  3. Write it down the same evening. Everything I did not write down within a day is gone.
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